Day 10 in Ecuador - Dry vs Wet with Snorkeling In-Between

I should live on a boat!  I slept for over eight hours last night feeling the gentle sway of the ship.  I am in my happy place!

I love my cozy room, but it does take a little maneuvering even with only me in the room.  Stowing gear and getting settled yesterday had me pinging between the bed and the wall.  

And, the ship was at anchor!

The private bathroom is such a blessing with hot water in the shower and even a blow dryer.  However, it is a tight squeeze!  All trash must go into the trash can, and I mean ALL trash including toilet paper.  You do NOT want to be the one who stops up the septic system on a ship!

The can prevents the bathroom door from closing, and the tissue paper holder is behind the door.  When you are finished with the toilet, I have to place one foot in the shower to open the door, grab paper, close door.  If you want to multitask, you can sit on the toilet and reach inside the shower and turn on the hot water to warm up and/or brush your teeth and spit in the sink…all at the same time!

There are less than three inches between the toilet and the door’s edge; I measured!  To get into the shower, I enter the bathroom, scoot between the toilet and sink, swing the door partially closed to get past, and into the shower.  

The bathroom is a delicate maneuver but manageable.  Now imagine doing this while this small ship is moving or in the dark!  No complaints; I just wanted you to really be on this adventure with me!

Breakfast and lunch is served buffet style, but the waiter does not even let me make my own coffee.  This is luxury!

We have a “dry” landing this morning on Genovesa which we reached during the night.   Alberto, our guide, says this is his favorite island.

Heading to the island’s landing site, my first blue footed boobie sits on the cliff face!

Sea lions lounge on the rocks.  

I think this one winked at me!

The dinghy deposits us by the cliff face which thoughtfully has a set of steps.  These were installed years ago for England’s Prince Charles’s visit to the islands, but no one mentioned 8” risers to the construction crew.  I struggle with some of the steep steps but manage to pull myself up.  It may not be pretty, but it gets the job done.

At the top is another world, and just as I imagined!  Dozens if not hundreds of red-chested frigate birds display their manly pride!  These sacs take hours to inflate, and each male is hoping a female will chose him as her mate.  Their feathers are primarily black with a cape of greenish ones covering the upper back.

  


This archipelago was first discovered in 1535 by a Peruvian bishop in becalmed seas who thought they were barren and uninhabitable.  After Ecuador claimed the islands as part of their country, they attempted to colonize them with prisoners and debtors.  This first attempt was not successful.  In 1832, the government offered land for free and people came.

However, people also brought non-native animals…horses, cows, goats, donkeys, cats, and dogs.  They introduced non-native plants as well…blackberry, quinine, bananas, tomatoes, watermelon, passion fruit, and guava.  Ships also brought rats.

How did native plants and animals reach these volcanic islands?  41% arrived by air, 9% by ocean currents, 6% by birds, and the others by “rafting” or floating.

As we walk along the stone lined walkway…and don’t leave that narrow path…red footed boobies sit in the trees.  Blue footed boobies populate many of the islands, but red footed ones only live on Genovesa.

  

The red footed boobies’ faces look clownish as if someone painted makeup on them.  You are truly magnificent!

As we quietly snap pictures, the birds know we are there, but ignore our presence or turn their backs to us.  My camera has a 30 zoom so I am not on top of the animals even if the pictures look like I am. Unfortunately, with my zoom having problems, I won’t be able to have the “eyeball” photos I’ve loved in the past.

Remember …there are very heavy financial penalties if anyone is found on the islands without a licensed naturalist.  Several small ships are anchored off the island, but landings are strictly timed so the ecosystem is not overloaded with large groups all together.  Alberto says the guides also self-regulate themselves and will report anyone not adhering to park rules.

The Nazca is the third kind of boobie on the islands.  Boobie comes from the Spanish word “bobos” which means idiot.  They do have a very comic expression on their faces!

B

I wonder if this one is protecting her nest with spread wings.

Along the path is a messy little fledging still getting his adult feathers.  

  

On the barren flat top of the cliffs, birds are swarming.  

They nest in the ground, and our guide suspects they are aware of a predator watching them.  There are few predators on the islands…more on that later…but the short-eared owl sits patiently on the ground watching…and waiting…for a bird to enter its nest and identify the location.  The owl hopes to find lunch inside!

Such expression in those eyes!

A mother and her chick.

Pinch me; I really am here!

    

Usually I don’t like to have my picture taken, but I don’t want to miss this opportunity!

We leave the island, but another adventure awaits!  I have not snorkeled since I was in Hawaii with the boys in 2007.  I loved it so much then I even bought a snorkel and face mask on a Groupon special.  They have never been used, but I brought them with me for this trip!

Although the water is warm, I rented a wet suit primarily to prevent jellyfish stings.  There will be no pictures posted of me in a wetsuit!

I am a little tentative sliding off the dinghy into the water, but it is just like riding a bicycle.  I breath, blow, and God’s creation opens up before me!

Even though the water is a little cloudy, I immediately see schools of small fish and bright orange tailed fish.  I am trying to use my new underwater camera, but it’s difficult even after reading the booklet three times.

Suddenly, a large carapace is directly below me, and it’s a giant sea turtle!  I follow it until I realize it is lazily swimming towards the open ocean while I am suppose to remain by the cliffs.  Goodbye, new friend!

I continue my slow pace lagging behind the group thoroughly enjoying the experience.  Has my friend returned, or is this a new turtle?  Another one is much closer and swims within several yards of me coming even closer.  I try to keep my distance, and forget fiddling with my camera.  I am enjoying the moment of swimming side by side with a giant sea turtle!

Alas, he…or she…loses interest in me and swims away.  Have a great life!

Our hour of snorkeling was magical!  I could have stayed in the water all day, but lunch and siesta is on our schedule followed by our first “wet” landing.

In a wet landing, water shoes are needed since you jump from the dinghy into several inches of water and wade ashore.  Today we will remain near the beach area so no boots required.

Look who got here first!

A mother and pup sea lion are sunbathing or rather the mother is sunbathing and the baby is nursing!  I am so close I can him him slurp, suck, suck, slurp!

  

Can you believe how close I am?

 

Mother sea lions nurse their pups almost continuously for two weeks after giving birth.  Their milk is so rich and thick it is like drinking cream.  After two weeks, the mother leaves the baby on shore alone or with other pups to feed herself.  She doesn’t come back for a couple of weeks, but when she returns, mother and pup recognize each other from the time they spent bonding at birth.  

The pup is thin and starving at this point and starts to nurse again.  In one year, the pup will be fully grown and the size of the mother.

I wish I could touch these beautiful creatures, but we must maintain a 7’ radius…including our cameras…from the animals.  We try to stay quiet and walk slowly both of which are difficult when you are excited!

We walk a trail near the beach, and red footed boobies are on display for us!

   

The swallow-tailed gull is the only nocturnal gull, and she lays her beige speckled eggs on the beach.  I think she is standing guard.

  

Look at those red rimmed eyes and red feet to match!

Darwin finches are famous as he based his theory of evolution on the different shapes of their beaks.  Some have adapted to crack seeds, others eat fruit, some have long pointed beaks to reach inside objects.  Short beaked finches have been known to use tools such as a stick to reach inside something when their beak isn’t long enough.

Most of the finches fly rapidly from tree to tree.  By the time I’m ready to take a picture, they have moved on.  You may not be seeing pictures of many finches!

We walk through a small tributary with water about mid-calf.  A field of male frigate birds put on a display!

 

Frigate birds are known as thieves stealing food and even nesting material from other birds.  I see this happen in the air as they fly above us.

A yellow-crowned night heron looks like a hunched and shaggy old man to me!

  

Suddenly, a sea lion zips right between two of us walking in the water.  They are so fast!

A few minutes later, I don’t know if it’s the same sea lion or a different one, but it swims by, takes a look at me, 

 

and swims right at me!

I’m not afraid so I stand still in the water, as he looks, doesn’t seem interested and swims away.  What an amazing experience!

I say goodbye to the male frigates and 

the red footed boobies and

the finches and

return to the beach for a last visit with the sea lion pair as my shadow lengthens.

It’s been an amazing full day in the Galápagos Islands.  Now it’s time for a shower, dinner, and bed!

Before heading to bed, I go outside for some star-gazing.  Alberto pointed out the Southern Cross last night when I was on the sun deck.  It took a while to get my app, Night Sky, to work but tonight I am prepared and stretch out on a bench on the back deck.  Tiny pinpricks of light pepper the sky.  I almost fall asleep with the rocking of the boat, but I force myself to bed.  Adios!