Coming to an End!

Bastion point, Tapaparawhau, is a beautiful series of terraced and landscaped gardens overlooking the harbor with a large obelisk as a focus point.  It is the burial place of New Zealand’s first Labor Prime Minister, Michael Joseph Savage, who worked with the Māori people during his time in office in the 1930’s.


The area has a more recent history as the setting of a large protest of Māori for 505 days.  In  1977, the government decided to take these rolling hills and build a private, upscale community and hotels under The Treaty of Waitangi for the “betterment of New Zealand”. The Māori rebelled with a slogan of “Not One More Acre”!  A local Māori, Joe Hawke, built a shack and others joined him refusing to leave.


The police finally evicted them in 1978, arresting 222 individuals, and tore down buildings.  Joe Hawke’s case was heard by the Waitangi Tribunal, and they recommended returning the land to the Māori nation!  This was a huge victory for them!


The Māori are committed to leaving the land as a park-like setting to be enjoyed by all.  Their community is at the top of a hill overlooking Bastion Point along with a retirement center they built and manage.  After so much pain and struggle with the Europeans, it is amazing that the Māori want everyone to come here with their families, picnic, play, and enjoy this beautiful place.


It is an emotional time for us since the group will be divided tomorrow.  Eight people will be leaving, and only eight of us will continue on a post-trip north to the Bay of Islands.  Phil says we are now family, and holding our left fists towards the distance mountain, our knuckles replicate the peaks.  He tells us if we ever miss New Zealand just hold our fist out and remember!


The Auckland War Memorial Museum is a major museum built on a hill overlooking the city and filled with artifacts telling the story of New Zealand and its people.  Divided into different galleries, I wander through the displays of Māori culture, wildlife, achievements, and time during WWI and WWII.  I would love to attend a highlight tour, but the time conflicted with another program I didn’t want to miss.


The Māori Cultural Experience is a 30-minute energetic performance by four young native people explaining their culture though song and dance.  There are prayers to their ancestors, and the first two rows in the auditorium are left empty for their spirits to attend.  The highlight is the Haka, a ceremonial dance connecting the tribe, family and strength. The performers are stomping feet, slapping thighs, waving hands, with eyes wide and tongues extended.  It is a fierce demonstration of power, and sitting in my seat, I can feel the intensity!


Both Māori tribes battling each other long ago and current sports teams like the New Zealand’s All Blacks, a professional men’s rugby team, perform the haka before games.  It is a huge source of intimidation!


Tonight is our farewell dinner and saying goodbye to people who several weeks ago were strangers and are now friends!  We have laughed together and told stories, commiserated over common problems and ailments, supported and encouraged each other in struggles, and celebrated achievements!  It has been a great group of people to travel and learn and explore with together!


Tears and hugs and smiles are shared along with sincere comments such as “Stay in touch!” and “Come visit”!  Tomorrow we have a final breakfast as a group, and then eight of us leave to continue our exploration of New Zealand for a few more days and the remaining eight divide into separate paths.


Good-bye new friends, and I hope to see you again to share the memories we created!  Happy travels!


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